Finished: Perfectly Plaid Peony

It's finally finished!  After 3 weeks, a number of stupid mistakes and a sewing machine breakdown, I have finished the third item in my Capsule Wardrobe plan. The first two items were my denim Crescent skirt and my Nice Surprise blouse. 

This was the first time I've made the Peony - Here's my review:

Pattern Used

Colette Patterns' Peony dress - I made Version 1 with the 3/4 sleeves and a belt made from a different fabric. 

Does it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope?
Yep. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? 
Yes, it's not a difficult pattern in any case.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 
I was attracted to the neckline in particular, plus the fact it has pockets (the dress, not the neckline - that would be weird). However, now it's made, it is the neckline that I am dissatisfied with as you can *just* see my bra straps on either side (though not in these photos). I am going to make some loops with little metal studs that I could use to hold the straps in place to the shoulders of the dress, like you sometimes see in vintage dresses, but have not yet done this. However the first time I wore the dress I was very paranoid of this issue so will definitely be trying to fix this, pronto.

I'm not sure what the cause of this is. I did make a bodice muslin which suggested that it would be a good, snug fit, but I think I could have done with taking some fabric vertically from the front and back bodice pieces. As I have wide shoulders, I would have been reluctant to do this in case it was too tight across the shoulders. As it is, the fit is comfortable there.

I'd be grateful for any feedback or suggestions on this issue!

 

Fabric & Notions

I used a 100% wool fabric purchased in the Mandors sale just after Christmas. It was reduced to half price at £4 per metre, but it wasn't that great to work with (quite loosely woven so it was a bit unravelly) so I would have been annoyed if I had paid full price for it. I just love the combination of colours - blues and greens with black and grey. I lined the bodice and skirt with a green lining, also from Mandors, which is nice and silky but relatively thick, so feels good quality.

For the belt I was unable to find any fabric in a colour that matched the blues or greens in the dress, so I used a bit of black crepe from the belt I made for my leopard-print Crepe dress last year. The grey metal button was from my stash, it was a Christmas gift in 2012. I used an invisible zip.

Without the belt - Looking slightly like I'm about to start Irish Dancing

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made

I added 1 inch to the bodice and 1 inch to the skirt and am very glad I did because the length is just right on me. When it was finished, I also took in the side seams from the underarms, tapering down to the top of the pockets, as the fit was a little loose. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?   

I probably would sew it again, but have no immediate plans. I would recommend it.

 Look! Matching!

Did you use any new skills? 
Matching plaid! This definitely added time onto the make as there are so many areas to match. In the end I am very pleased with the job I did. It's not 100% perfect but it's certainly good enough not  to give you a migraine from the visual disturbance. Also, the construction of the cummerbund was new to me.

Aaaaaand, from the back

What wardrobe gap does this fill?
A winter dress for work.

Cost 
Fabric           £10 (Mandors)
Lining          £3.99 (Mandors)
Belt fabric    Stash
Thread          £1.45 (Remnant Kings)
Zip                £1.90 (Remnant Kings)
Button          Stash
Pattern          Christmas Gift

Total             £17.34 

 Worn with a 1950s metal and fur brooch from a charity shop (blogged here) and brown ASOS brogues (I copied Melizza of Pincushion Treats - I bought them after seeing hers at the Crafters' Ceilidh!)

 

Conclusion
I definitely like it and have put a lot of work into the finish of it, which I am very proud of. The neckline/bra strap thing annoys me though, and it is this which prevents me from giving it the unequivocal 'thumbs up' I expected that I would do. I think I could have made it a little smaller perhaps, but like to be comfy plus am paranoid about making things too tight as realistically, I am not going to get any smaller over time (and don't intend/want to lose any weight) only stay the same or get larger, so I would hate to struggle to fit into it. Overall I am pleased - it's a practical and comfortable dress, and I anticipate that it will be really useful to wear to work. Still a couple of kinks to iron out before I will consider this project truly finished.

I'm going to post later this week about lining the dress, so do check back if you're interested in finding out more about its innards....

K x

Pattern Monday #14

David found that dressing up his son as an elderly, blind man really attracted the ladies.

Today's pattern is courtesy of Wendy from The Butterfly Balcony.

Has Your Sewing Machine Ever Broken?

Last Sunday I was merrily sewing away on my Peony, when disaster struck. My bobbin winder was loose and wouldn't click into place properly to let me fill the bobbin - eek!!

After a quick search online, I found a local sewing machine repair person who came to my house the following evening. After a quick assessment, he gave me a quote, took the machine away, and delivered it back to me on Wednesday evening. Easy! I felt very lucky to live in a city, and have such a great service available. I even took the opportunity to ask him for his recommendations for good machines if I wanted to replace mine (a Janome in the £200 region, if you're interested).

My machine - a Singer Inspiration 4205. 

The problem with my bobbin winder was apparently caused by something hitting the top of it. Rather than something falling on it, I think this may have happened on one of the rare occasions when I actually put it away in the sideboard, and knocked the winder against the top of the cupboard. In any case, my helpful repairman reckoned that the break was an unusual one, explained how he had fixed it and made the part more sturdy and said that I had a pretty solid machine, despite it being a cheap one.

Have you ever had a problem with your sewing machine? What did you do about it? Are you lucky enough to have a local sewing machine repairman? I think mine might join my short list of essential 'fixers', along with my hairdresser and my local cobbler!

K x

Sew Grateful Colette Pattern Winner #2

As I have not heard from the person originally drawn as the winner of the Sew Grateful Giveaway for a Colette Pattern I have now drawn another winner......

And the winner is Dibs of Dibs and the Machine!

Yay Dibs! You just need to confirm which pattern you would like and the address that I should send it to by emailing me at kestrelmail [at] gmail [dot] com.

K x

Pattern Monday #13

Concept: Lady models knitwear while her fisherman lover mends his fishing nets.

Reality: Lady models knitwear while a slightly creepy man hangs out in the background with an unlit cigarette, exposing his naval.


(Anyone ever seen an exposed bellybutton in a knitting pattern picture before?)

Image from Spinnerin Magazine - Thanks to Roobeedoo.

K x

My Favourite Vintage Homewear Find

Last month I made my favourite ever homewear find - a pair of gorgeous 1950s barkcloth curtains. I spotted them in the vintage section of a charity shop in town, and knew immediately that they had to be mine. A bargain at £14.99.

They are in excellent condition, and after a wash to freshen them up, I put on a new curtain tape and let down the generous hem to make them the right length to use as floor-to-ceiling curtains in the bedroom.

Here's a close up of the pattern:

I would have loved to have used them in the living room but sadly they were a bit narrow. There's no maker or pattern name on them which is a shame, as I love to find out more about the things I buy. Nevertheless, I am utterly delighted with my find.

Have you made any good finds recently?

K x

Sew Grateful Giveaway Winner - Still to Contact Me!

Hello!

Just a short post to remind the winner of the Sew Grateful Giveaway for the Colette Pattern, to contact me. The winner was

Number 55 - Mon

Mon said:

"Holy! This giveaway is really amazing!!! I would love to have the parfait dress!!!"

Mon, unfortunately there's no contact information on your Blogger profile, so please email me at kestrelmail [at] gmail [dot] com to confirm that you would like the Parfait dress, and to let me know where to send your pattern. You have until 12 noon GMT on Wednesday 22nd February to contact me, or I will select another winner.

K x

Matching Plaids for Peony

Wrong side of sleeve with right side of facing

Since last week I have been working on my Peony dress, which is part of my Mini Capsule Wardrobe. Progress is a little slow, hampered by my making a number of silly mistakes:

• Marking the right side of the fabric instead of the wrong side - I cut the fabric at night and am blaming the lack of natural light for my not noticing.
• Having to re-cut the facings and re-apply interfacing, since I thought the right side was the wrong side
• Making the pockets completely wrongly - I sewed the two pieces together instead of sewing each side to the skirt pieces. I had to cut some new pocket pieces and start again.
• Then! I stitched the pockets on the wrong side of the fabric!

Other than that I am happy with how it's shaping up. Matching the plaids is pretty challenging but I am excited with how it looks. I am really hoping to get in finished this weekend but it might be a push as I am lining it too. I'm amused by how much of a sewing snob I'm becoming - these days I would much rather take the time to put in a lining and finish my garment nicely than rush to the end, just to get a wearable garment.

Other than the Peony, this weekend holds a new haircut (keep your fingers crossed for me...), charity shops and the antiques fair.

Hope you have a great weekend too, whatever you're up to!

K x

So, this is what is known as an 'Epic Fail'

Taken while photographer keeling over at horrible-ness of blouse

When I mentioned in my Giveaway post that I had made a Violet blouse that I had not yet blogged about, a few people commented that they would like to see it. I actually finished this blouse at the beginning of January, so you might wonder why it is only now making it to the blog. The reason is simple - I didn't like it.

However, I wrote up a draft blog post and then put the blouse on for some photos last week, only for my husband to offer to take pictures of me in my 'diahorrea-coloured jester costume.' Hmmmmm.

Do you remember last week, when I was asking whose opinion you trust on your sewing? Well that is why I was thinking about that particular question. Sadly, I think he's hit the nail on the head with this singularly horrible description.

Although I loved the feel and drape of the fabric, it's a weird colour. And the sleeves are a bit mad. And it's very unflattering. And I messed up the buttonholes. And....and.....I've written a review anyway. Since I am interested in seeing other peoples' failed projects on their blogs (I know that sounds mean, but it's nice to see that even the coolest and most stylish sewing bloggers are human) I knew I had to share my own disaster.

Pattern Used

Colette Pattern's Violet blouse - I made view 2 with mid-length sleeves with an elasticated hem.

Does it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope? 

In essence

Were the instructions easy to follow? 
Yes, as ever, they were a dream.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  
I liked the Peter Pan collar and the fact it seemed like a good, versatile basic. 

Fabric & Notions 
I used some kind of man-made fabric that I got from a charity shop. It's really soft and drapes nicely, so I thought that would mean the blouse wouldn't look too 'boxy' when finished. On the minus side, THE COLOUR (what was I thinking?) and it is static like you wouldn't believe - when I take it off it really crackles, and makes my hair stick to my face. I dislike this a lot.

The fabric covered buttons are from a Laura Ashley dress that I restyled last year and have been saving. I also had a strip of the dress fabric left which I managed to make into bias tape for the elastic at the sleeve hems. Resourceful, eh? However, this took ageeeees and was really fiddly since there wasn't much fabric to work with. In the end, you can't even really see it because of how the sleeve sits!

Pesky, puff-tastic sleeves

The Laura Ashley fabric is navy with a red and pink pattern of redcurrants. Does this even go with the main blouse colour? I'm not sure. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made

I added 1.5 inches to the length since I am tall, and wanted to ensure that it wasn't going to end up as a crop top.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?   

I would like to sew it again as I think I MUST be able to do a better job, second time around. 

Did you use any new skills? 
Putting the elastic in the casing at the sleeves was a new thing for me.   

What wardrobe gap does this fill?
I need more separates, particularly tops. Not this particular one though - the only gap this thing will be filling is in a bag for the charity shop.

Cost 
Fabric      £2.50 (Charity shop)
Thread    £1.45 (Remnant Kings)
Buttons   £0.00 (Leftover from this charity shop dress)
Pattern     £0.00 (Christmas present) 

Total      £3.95 - At least it was cheap!

Conclusion
I'm not in love with it for numerous reasons and I am definitely peeved that the bias tape isn't really visible after all the work I put in for that, and to finish the whole thing properly. I also did a poor job with the buttonholes and placed the top one too far away from the front edge, meaning that the top of the placket didn't sit properly until I fixed it by making a big wide buttonhole, and it's still not quite there. I'm not convinced about the sleeve length, and found that it didn't sit as well as I would have liked under a cardigan. The fit is also very unflattering.

I would make the pattern again though, and I have seen lovely Violets on other blogs, luckily enough, to give me some inspiration. My two favourites belong to...

 ScruffyBadger is one of the few other people I have seen who made the same sleeve option as I did. I also love the colour of the fabric, and that size of fabric pattern is just perfect for the blouse. (Image from here. You will note how nicely the sleeves end below the elbow - maybe my sleeves should have been longer so they didn't sit about the elbow and puff out.

 

 Lladybird, who made hers in a lovely Swiss Dot, and made it more fitted at the front. I love how gorgeous a simple white blouse can look. (Image from here)

I want to try sewing with Liberty Tana Lawn this year, as I have never done so. Perhaps this may be the pattern I revisit to do that - I don't want to write this pattern off because of my unfortunate version of this blouse.

Not one of my better makes, but onwards and upwards, eh?


K x 

Pattern Monday #12

Carol always had a good look around before stealing flowers from the graveyard

This week's Pattern Monday is courtesy of The Butterfly Balcony, who kindly scanned and sent me some absolute corkers from her pattern collection - more great ones to come over the next few weeks. Cheers Wendy!

K x

Sew Grateful Giveaway Winner!

What a great week it's been! There have been giveaways, tutorials and reflection posts all over the Internet as part of Sew Grateful. A big thank you to Debi for hosting it and pulling all the information together - it's been fantastic!

Now for the winner of the Colette Patterns Giveaway. I had an amazing response with comments from regular and new commenters alike. There were 105 entrants (106 comments but one was a reply to a comment), so through the power of the random number generator, the winner is.......

Number 55 - Mon!

Mon said:

"Holy! This giveaway is really amazing!!! I would love to have the parfait dress!!!"

Mon, please email me at kestrelmail [at] gmail [dot] com to confirm that you would like the Parfait dress, and to let me know where to send your pattern.

Thanks so much for entering, everyone!

K x

Whose Sewing Opinion Do You Seek?

When you've finished your latest creation, sewn or knitted, who do you like to get approval from? Is it close friends, who know what your style is? Work colleagues who'll swear your new skirt looks like it's from Topshop? Or family, who don't hesitate in giving you the most unflinchingly honest opinion?

For me, my husband is always the first to see what I have been making so his is the first opinion I get. I like to get the basic level of 'Does this look ok/Does it look a bit mad?' approval from him, as reassurance that my choice of pattern and/or fabric wasn't a disaster. I know I can count on an honest opinion, and even if it is negative it always seems to reinforce my own opinion, even if I haven't been quite able to admit it to myself.

What about you - whose opinion do you like to get?

K x

Attention Glasgow & Edinburgh Fabric Lovers!

Find the deal here

The deals website itison.com is currently offering a deal with Mandors in Edinburgh AND Glasgow:

Pay £16 and get a voucher for £40
Pay £24 and get a voucher for £60

Eep! What a deal. Vouchers are valid for everything except patterns.

I'm off to buy mine now

K x

Pattern Monday #11

Sally always confused the emotions of 'fear' and 'boredom'

Thanks to the lovely Roobeedoo for sending me the Spinnerin magazine, from which this fab picture comes. She also pointed out the limp hose that the fireman is wielding - might be a little hard to put out that fire...

K x

Sew Grateful Giveaway - Win a Colette Pattern of your Choice

Since starting my blog a year and a half ago, I have really loved being part of the sewing blogger community. I have been inspired by seeing things that others have made, have learned so much through tutorials and sewalongs, and have been encouraged by the lovely comments that you have left on my blog.

When Debi announced her Sew Grateful Week, I though this would be a great opportunity to say a big 'Thank You' to everyone who reads, and takes the time to comment - I really am 'sew grateful'.  How better to show my gratitude than to give away a fabulous Colette Pattern?

Beignet #2 in cord

I have made the Sencha (3 times), Beignet (twice), Rooibos, Crepe, Violet (not blogged yet!), I have Peony and Jasmine lined up and a list of the next patterns I'd love to make. I love Colette Patterns because the designs are beautiful and classic, and with their fab instructions, they're hard to beat. And I know they are much beloved amongst you all too! Which one would you pick?

Pretty Peony? The choice is yours... (Image from Colette Patterns)

So, here's how to enter:

• Be a follower of my blog through Google Friend Connect or Bloglovin'
• Leave a comment to say which Colette Pattern you would like to win - and why
• Entries are welcome from anywhere in the world - I will post worldwide
• Giveaway closes next Sunday, 12th February, at 5pm GMT.

[EDIT: Google Reader Followers are also welcome, and the winner will be picked at random]

Good luck!

K x

Finished: 'Nice Surprise' Blouse

When sewing, do you ever feel that you are not going to like the item you are making? That was how I felt about this blouse - hence the name. As soon as I started to sew the pieces together, and when I tried it on at different stages during the making process, I felt that I was not going to like the finished result. The shape seemed odd and matronly and the fabric felt cheap (it was). But when I had sewn on the buttons, I put it on to find that I actually liked the finished item.

This is the second item from my Capsule Wardrobe plan - a vintage blouse in man made fabric to wear to work. Here's my review of the project:

Pattern Used

 Butterick 9206 - a late 1950s blouse with a tie collar. I made view D.

Does it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope? 

More or less - my tie is floppier but I used light fabric and didn't interface it.

Were the instructions easy to follow? 

Yes, pattern is labelled as 'nice and easy' and it is.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 
I liked the neck tie, the fact it said it was easy, and the kimono sleeves. One of the sleeves kicks out in a weird way, but hey, I can live with it.

Fabric & Notions  
I used a semi-sheer polyester with a blue printed design, that I bought from a charity shop. The buttons were dark blue circular plastic, but I could have used neutral-coloured ones as they are mostly hidden by the neck tie.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made

The pattern I had was a 38" bust so I had to make it quite a bit smaller. I didn't grade the pattern properly, because I'm lazy, but I deepened and lengthened the bust darts, lengthened the vertical darts and took in the side seams a lot - particularly under the arms. The fit is probably a bit looser than the pattern intends, but I'm happy with it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?   

I probably would sew it again, and have made a note of my changes, should I wish to do so. I got a few compliments the first time I wore it, which has encouraged me to make it again. If I hadn't been lazy and had properly re-drafted the pattern I would probably be more inclined to make it again.

Did you use any new skills? 
Not really 
 

What wardrobe gap does this fill?
A top for work that doesn't need ironing. 

Cost 
Fabric      £2.50 (Charity shop)
Thread    £1.45 (Remnant Kings)
Buttons   £1.50 (Remnant Kings)
Pattern     £1 (approx, part of a £6 pattern lot of 7 patterns from eBay) 

Total        £6.45 (plus £9.50 for the camisole - but I can wear that with other things!)

 
Conclusion
It really was a nice surprise that this blouse turned out so well. The finish definitely isn't perfect as the fabric was quite hard to work with - one of the ends of the sleeves sticks out and some of the sewing is a little ropey. Plus as it's so sheer I had to buy a camisole to wear underneath. I really do like the fabric and think that the size of the pattern suits the blouse well. It's hard to find a pattern of just the right size that isn't too big or too small or too fussy. I think this one is just right.

So what's next in the capsule wardrobe plan?

 

Peony in wool plaid - three quarter length sleeves version. 

I am so looking forward to making this, and am planning to start with a bodice muslin this weekend. Excited!


K x