This is how my pattern pieces look:
Here's my shirt from the back:
A better wrinkle picture:
The shirt bunches out in these areas and doesn't sit as nicely as the first version, and I'm not sure why. I know this area should have a bit of ease to allow for movement, but this seems like too much extra fabrics. There are three things different in this version compared to the last so let's see if they could be the cause of this:
1. Forward shoulder adjustment: In this I added to the back piece and took away from the front piece. That shouldn't have an effect but the book recommended I do it in a slightly weird scoop shape.
2. Broad shoulder adjustment: The book told me to slash and spread at the armpit on back AND front pieces and then true the seam. However, as the shirt had short sleeves, I opted to add to the end of the short sleeves. Could that have had some kind of negative effect?
3. Different fabric: The lawn is crisper than the viscose. Is it just a less forgiving fabric and therefore showing up a problem that wasn't previously noticeable?
However, could the wrinkles be related to my narrow upper chest? I often have to make this adjustment too (such as on numerous Grainline Scout tees) and I know from experience that a poor fit in that area is much less noticeable when I use drapey fabric, so I can sometimes get away without doing this adjustment.The need to make the adjustment is more obvious on a rounded neckline, when it sits away from the body but perhaps the wrinkles show the need to do it for this bodice shape. Though the placement of the wrinkles maybe still suggests something shoulder related??
If there are any fit gurus reading, please help me out with this if you can - I really want to crack this pattern!
I'm also wondering if it would be possibly to do a fly adjustment on this shirt - if it would be possible to put in a dart as the fabric print is so busy that it would be hidden...maybe not though.Abakhan, and it also comes in other colourways too. I really love the fabric, it's perfect for Spring. Perhaps a touch on the 'pyjama' side but I don't care.
I'm still hoping to make more of these shirts if I can work out this final fit issue. They are pretty different from the shapes of tops I usually wear but I'm enjoying the new look.